Must have textiles in every Indian bride’s trousseau

Each region in India has its own unique textile associated with weddings. Here are some of the finest wedding textiles in India.

Banarsi sari: Originating from Varanasi, also known as Banaras, in Uttar Pradesh, it is undoubtedly one of the most exquisite and rich saris that are woven in India. Known for its elaborately ornate with heavy gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery, the Banarasi sari is a popular choice for bridal trousseaus. They were introduced in India by the Mughals, and hence, Mughal inspired designs such as intricate intertwining floral motifs, net like patterns, architectural designs along with figures of animals in gold or silver are common. Depending on the intricacy of its designs and patterns, a sari can take from 15 days to a month and sometimes up to six months to complete. The price range of Banarasi saris depends on the intricacy of work. The pure Banarasi silk sarees start from INR 4,500 and can go up to lakhs because of the real gold and silver zari threads used in it. Over the years, the Banarasi silk handloom industry has been facing competition from mechanised units producing the Banarasi silk sari at a faster and cheaper rate in cheaper synthetic alternatives to silk. Also, increasing quantities of look-alike Banarasi saris mass produced in China have been flooding the market. In 2009, the weaver association in Uttar Pradesh secured Geographical Indication (GI) rights for the Banaras brocade saris. This means that no saree or brocade made outside the six identified districts of Uttar Pradesh- Varanasi, Mirzapur, Chandauli, Bhadohi, Jaunpur and Azamgarh- can be legally sold under the name of Banaras sari or brocade.

Paitani sari: Named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad, Maharashtra, where it is hand woven, this fine silk sari is considered one of the richest saris in India. Once worn only by royals and aristocrats, today, Paithani saris hold a treasured place in the trousseau of a Maharashtrian bride. A genuine handloom Paithani sari uses about 500 grams of silk thread and another 250 grams of zari thread for a regular six yard sari. Nine yard saris obviously use more raw materials. The entire process of weaving and completing a Paithani sari can take anywhere from a month to two years. While Paithani saris often feature butis on the body, the highlight is always the border and pallu which consists of motifs like peacocks, lotus, parrots, flowers, vines and mango shapes. Since they’re dyed by weavers using vegetable dyes, these saris come in basic colours like red, yellow, blue, purple, peach-pink, green and magenta. Passed on from one generation to another, these heirloom saris can cost anywhere from INR 7,000 to INR 2,50,000 depending on the silk thread and zari work on the border which is usually drawn from real gold or silver. Paithani saris have been facing competition from power loom Paithanis which look as good as handwoven saris and are sold at high prices despite being produced at one-tenth the cost. One of the tell-tale signs of a genuine Paithani sari is that the weave looks exactly the same of both sides, whereas on power loom saris one can see threads on the reverse. Because of the manual nature of the weaving process, no two Paithanis are exactly the same. There will always be minute variations in design. A genuine Paithani doesn’t lose its lustre or wear out at folds.

Phulkari: “Phulkari”, which literally means “flower work”, is an embroidery technique from Punjab. This spectacular style of embroidery was patterned on odnis, shawls, dupattas and kurtis on charkha spun khaddar fabric. The main characteristic of this embroidery is the use of darn stitch on the wrong side of the cloth using untwisted coloured silk floss known as the pat. While Phulkari embroidery ornaments the cloth, garments made for ceremonial occasion such as weddings and the birth of a son had embroidery fully covering the base fabric. These are known as “Baghs”, meaning “garden”. Phulkaris and Baghs were traditionally embroidered by women for their own use and the use of family members and not for commercialization. It was a folk art. The motifs, which were created in a geometric grid forming horizontal, vertical and diagonal thread work, were inspired by the artists’ routine and represented life in the hamlets of Punjab. The patterns of Phulkari were neither drawn nor traced. The most favoured colour for embroidery was red and its shades as it is considered auspicious by Punjabi Hindus and Sikhs. Other colours are brown, blue, black and white. Phulkari garments were presented to brides at the time of their marriage, the number of Phulkari pieces defining the status of the family. It takes at least 80 days to complete a Phulkari salwar khameez and a heavy Phulkari work dupatta can cost almost as much as a Banarasi silk sari. Presently, machine made Phulkari attires are being manufactured in Amritsar and Ludhiana which makes it affordable for low end customers. Almost twelve Phulkari suits can be manufactured in a day by machines. In 2011, Phulkari was awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status in India, which means only registered traders and manufacturers from Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan would be able to use the term for the traditional craft.

Until next time, stay stylish!

(Ninoshka Alvares-Delaney is a Fashion Designer and is available at www.ninoshka.co.in