Draped in Style

If there is one piece of clothing that unifies our country from North to South, it is the saree. The significance of sarees is perfectly timeless and unmatched. Its design is universal and limitless, referenced around the world for its drape, textile and history. It is versatile and adaptable to context, environment and culture, with its making directly tied to the livelihoods of millions of craftspeople.

The existence of the saree can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilization, which flourished during 2800-1800 BC, and is still worn by Indian women on a regular basis. A six or nine yards long unstitched fabric that can make any woman look elegant and graceful, it is the most versatile piece of fashion a woman can own.

The Nivi drape is the most popular style of draping the saree, wherein it is pleated and tucked in at the waist and the loose end, or pallav, of the saree is draped over the left shoulder, baring the midriff. But did you know that there are over a hundred traditional and modern styles of draping a saree? Each Indian state has its own style of draping a saree. Depending on one’s culture, social status and occupation, the saree traditionally was, and still can be worn as a skirt, pants, shorts, dress, gown, halter or jumpsuit.

Let’s take a look at some interesting styles of draping the saree.

Venukagundaram drape: This drape was traditionally worn by the Burugapuka Kalingalu women who are agriculturists in the north coastal region of Andhra Pradesh. It is worn with a tulip opening in the front and pleats at the back which makes it comfortable and easy to carry.

East Champaran drape: This drape from west Bihar requires legs to be shoulder width apart while draping to ensure mobility as this drape has no pleats. The borders move upwards and are tucked into the waist. It is also known as the layered saree or Mumtaz style as it was popularized by the Bollywood actress in the 1960s. It looks very elegant and can be worn as a skirt for formal or informal events.

Dhangad drape: This is a short knee-length shepherd’s drape worn in north Goa. It is appropriate for herding in the forest though it can be more formally draped with the two sides let down to calf length. The 9 yard saree is first draped in a regular Nivi style after which the pleats are drawn between the legs and tucked in at the back. The pallav is tucked in at the waist for comfort and ease of movement.

Boggili Posi Kattukodam drape: Also known as the pocket saree, this is a grand drape worn by the Golla shepherd community and Gudati Kapulu agriculturists of southern Andhra Pradesh. This drape requires a 9 yard saree. The centre front pleats of the drape are lifted and tucked at the back forming pockets on either side.

Coorg drape: This is an interesting drape from Karnataka that looks like a toga. It is a formal drape worn by upper class Coorgi women that shows off the pallav. The pleats are tucked in at the waist at the centre back. The pallav is drawn under the right arm, over the left shoulder and secured with a knot on the right shoulder. This style is generally draped in a 9 yard saree.

Kunbi drape: Kunbi is an agriculturist tribe in Goa. The Kunbi drape is calf length; a practical necessity for working in the fields. The saree, however, is worn ankle length for formal events. Traditionally a blouse was not required to be worn underneath. The pallav is drawn under the left arm and secured with a knot on the right shoulder. Occasionally, the lower end of the pallav is lifted and tucked in at the waist to create a pocket or pouch in the front.

Surguja drape: This drape, traditionally worn by the dance community of Chattisgarh, creates a pair of ‘wings’ which enhance the dancer’s movement and circular motion. It doesn’t have pleats and give the dancer all the freedom of movement. The pallav is draped from back to front over the left shoulder. The outer end of the saree is tightly draped anticlockwise above the knees and the inner end is draped over the left shoulder.

This festive season get creative in how you drape, style and accessorize your saree. Wishing you all a happy and stylish Ganesh Chathurti!