Guideline for Men’s Formal Wear

Happy New Year folks! What a year 2017 has been. But the season is still not over. With so many people choosing to get married in this cool and pleasant weather, there are still so many weddings to attend, so many pre and post wedding parties to go to, and then so many anniversaries to celebrate.

At a time like this, most women are sorted with what they’re going to wear. Men on the other hand opt for the blazer suit or tuxedo for formal wear. Not only is it formal and fashionably safe to wear, but the weather at this time of the year is also conducive for the kind of attire.

It’s not just the colour, fabric or style that makes a man look dapper, but the fit plays a very important role too. Pay attention to detail. No matter what shape or size you are, well fitted clothing and well matched accessories will surely get you noticed. Not only will you look good, but you’ll feel good too and that will just boost your confidence and charisma.

Here’s what you need to keep in mind if you want to make heads turn.

Shirt:

Make sure your shirt fits right. It should neither be too tight nor too loose. You will know if your shirt is too big by looking at yourself in the mirror. To find out if your shirt it too small, try to hug someone, or make the hugging motion. If it feels uncomfortable, your shirt is too small. The shoulder seam of your shirt should line up at the edge of your shoulder. To test if it does, stand straight with your shoulder against a wall. If the shoulder seam is hidden between your arm and the wall, then it’s probably too big. If there is too large a distance between the seam and the wall, then it’s too small. To test the length of your shirt, tuck your shirt into your pants and raise your arms above your head to see if it still remains tucked in. The length of your sleeves should end between your pisiform bone and the bottom knuckle of your thumb. If your sleeve drapes over your thumb, it is too long, and if it doesn’t cover your wrist, it is too short. Your shirt collar should fit snugly around your neck, without feeling constricted. You should be able to fit in two fingers between the fastened collar and your neck.

Pants:

Nothing is more unflattering than an ill-fitted pair of trousers. Always try on pants with your dress shoes on to ensure proper length. It should be straight at the back with a small crease in the front. Make sure it’s neither too snug nor too baggy on the buttocks. Everyone likes a good butt, make sure yours looks flattering.

Jacket:

Test the torso and the shoulder of the jacket the same way you would do for your shirt. The shoulder of your jacket can go a little beyond the shoulder but not too much. The length of the jacket sleeve should be such that it shows off a bit of the cuff of your shirt, but not too much. Your jacket should be long enough to cover your butt. If you are tall and thin, you can go in for a two, three or four button style jacket. But if you are tall and muscular, you may settle for the one or two button style. If you are short, you can elongate your torso by opting for the low button stance, that is the opening V of your jacket should be lower on your torso. Avoid double breasted and three or four button style jackets. There is a “sometimes, always, never” rule when it comes to buttoning of jackets. If you’re wearing a three-buttoned jacket, sometimes button the top button, always button the middle button and never button the bottom button. In case of a two-buttoned jacket, always button the top button and never button the bottom one. The same applies to waistcoats. This bizarre tradition dates back to King Edward VII from the 1900s who kept the bottom buttons of his jacket and waistcoat unfastened because he was too fat. Your jacket should be unbuttoned when you’re sitting and buttoned up when you stand.

Tie and pocket square:

The tie and pocket square are accessories that can add colour to your otherwise monotonous suit. The colour of your tie should match your partner (if you have one), or your shirt, suit or tuxedo. The rule of thumb is that the width of the tie at its widest point should be equal to the jacket lapel at its widest point. Slim or skinny ties are worn with slim cut suits with narrow lapels, or with dress shirts with slim collars. Ideally, the tie should end somewhere at the centre of your belt buckle, or the widest part of your tie should be in line with the upper edge of your belt. You can also opt for a clip-on bowtie if you’re not comfortable knotting one up. A pocket square adds character to the suit. If you’re a heavier man, it also draws attention to the chest rather than the waist.

Tie bar and cufflinks:

A tie bar is a clip that fastens both the ends of your tie to the placket of your shirt. A tie bar is worn between the third and fourth buttons of the dress shirt. The width of the tie bar should not be more than the width of the tie. Cufflinks add a touch of sophistication to your attire and are mostly worn with French cuffs. Ideally, the metal used for the cufflinks should match other metals on the ensemble such as the belt buckle or tie bar.

Socks:

The colour of your socks should match the colour of your trousers. If you are adventurous enough to clash your socks, pick a colour that is similar to some element of your outfit, or has similar undertones, for example warm or cool colours. In case you want to go in for patterns, it is safer to opt for argyle, dots or stripes.

Belt and shoes:

When you’re wearing formals, your belt and shoes should match not only in colour but in the leather texture and finish as well. Dress shoes require a dress belt which is less thick with a shiny buckle. The best dress shoes are the oxford, derby, brogues and monk strap styles.

Cologne:

Finish your look with a dash of cologne. If anything is sexier than a well-dressed man, it’s a man who smells good. And yes, there is a correct way of applying your fragrance. You have four “hot spots” to choose from, namely the wrists, the base of the neck, behind the ears and the chest. Choose from two or three of these spots and spray from several inches away. The idea is to mist these areas as spraying too close will result in an overpowering scent.

Follow these guidelines and you are good to go. However, do feel free to experiment with your own personal style. Have a wonderful 2018, and don’t forget to stay stylish!